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575 posts categorized "Travel"

April 25, 2008

The impact of the Hajj

In David Lodge's great novel Changing Places, Euphoric State University professor Morris Zapp declared that "travel narrows." He was a world-renowned Jane Austen scholar, he said, precisely because he had never been to England: his lack of interest in the real England let him focus more sharply on the novels, and made him a better critic.

This attitude may hold true for literature (or not), but Slate reports on an interesting recent study (available here) suggesting that Muslims who make the pilgrimage to Mecca "came back with more moderate views on a range of issues, both religious and nonreligious, suggesting that the Hajj may be helpful in curbing the spread of extremism in the Islamic world."

The study looks at a group of 1,600 Pakistanis who applied for visas to go on the Hajj. As Slate explains, Pakistani visa policy creates a group that's a social scientist's dream:

In 2006, nearly 140,000 applicants vied for 80,000 visas through the Pakistan government's Hajj program. In order to decide who gets to go, the government holds a lottery. As a result, among the visa applicants, there's a group of people randomly selected to participate in the Hajj and a comparison group of would-be pilgrims who applied but didn't get to go. The two groups look very similar—the only systematic difference is that applicants in one group won the lottery and those in the other group didn't. If the Hajjis come back from Mecca more tolerant than those who didn't get to go, therefore, we know it's the result of the Hajj, not something else.

So what did the researchers find? As they report,

[P]articipation in the Hajj increases observance of global Islamic practices such as prayer and fasting while decreasing participation in localized practices and beliefs such as the use of amulets and dowry. It increases belief in equality and harmony among ethnic groups and Islamic sects and leads to more favorable attitudes toward women, including greater acceptance of female education and employment. Increased unity within the Islamic world is not accompanied by antipathy toward non-Muslims. Instead, Hajjis show increased belief in peace, and in equality and harmony among adherents of different religions. The evidence suggests that these changes are more a result of exposure to and interaction with Hajjis from around the world, rather than religious instruction or a changed social role of pilgrims upon return....

Our results tend to support the idea that the Hajj helps to integrate the Muslim world, leading to a strengthening of global Islamic beliefs, a weakened attachment to localized religious customs, and a sense of unity and equality with others who are ordinarily separated in everyday life by sect, ethnicity, nationality, or gender, but who are brought together during the Hajj. While the Hajj may help forge a common Islamic identity, there is no evidence that this is defined in opposition to non-Muslims. On the contrary, the notions of equality and harmony tend to extend to adherents of other religions as well.

Why is this?

While it is difficult to isolate what drives the impact of the Hajj, the evidence suggests that exposure to Muslims from around the world during the Hajj is important. While we find that Hajjis do not acquire greater formal religious knowledge, they do gain experiential knowledge of the diversity of Islamic practices and beliefs, gender roles within Islam, and, more broadly, the world beyond Pakistan. The Hajj’s impact on such knowledge and on some of the tolerant attitudes toward other groups tends to be larger for those traveling in smaller groups, who are more likely to have a broad range of social interactions with people from different backgrounds during the Hajj. Hajjis also show the largest positive gain in their views of other nationalities for Indonesians, the group they are most likely to observe during the Hajj other than Saudis. Hajjis’ changed views toward women also reflect the exposure channel since the Hajj offers Pakistani pilgrims a novel opportunity to interact with members of the opposite gender in a religious setting, and to observe interactions across the sexes among Muslims from nations which are more accepting of such interactions.

As with computers, so with religion: user experience and interaction is everything.

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April 20, 2008

I'm back

Made it home safely. I left Changi Airport at 6 pm Singapore time on Sunday, and arrived in SFO at 8 pm PST. So that's about 17 hours' travel time, I think.

Since everyone put their windowshade down right after takeoff, I was in darkness the whole flight. So in a sense I missed a day. Kind of strange, but probably not as dislocating as having seven hours of daylight.

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The "free wireless" at Changi Airport

I finally got onto the free wireless here at the airport, though it's what you might think of as a typically Singaporean process. You have to create an account first, which involves (among other things) giving them your name, address, and passport number. Once you've done that, they send a text message to your cell phone-- forget giving you your account information on the computer, much less just letting you start using the network.

After you've got your username and password, you log in. What the instructions don't tell you is that your username isn't just whatever name you've got-- joebob123-- but it's joebob123@qmax.com.sg. If you don't include the @qmax.com.sg, it doesn't work. Obviously.

Also, they send you an e-mail with information about how to change your password to something you can remember-- but so far as I can tell, there's nothing on the Web site it self that tells you how to do that. No "My Account" button, no "Change password" link, nothing. You have to refer to the e-mail... if you've gotten online and been able to read it, that is.

So I figured this out just in time to pack up and go catch my flight. More from Hong Kong, perhaps.

[To the tune of The Blue Nile, "Let's Go Out Tonight," from the album "Hats".]

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April 19, 2008

Sunrise this morning

I woke up this morning just before 7, read a few pages of Accelerando (which is quite a good book), and soon will start getting organized to pack. I need to send a few more messages first, though: I find if I don't send out thank-you notes as soon as possible, they drift down to the bottom of my queue, and it's weeks-- or never-- before I get to them. And when this means when it looks like you're ignoring people who've put time and effort into helping you, it's a Bad Thing.


via flickr

My flight leaves this afternoon around 5:30 or 6, so I've got a full day to do things. I doubt I'm going to be very ambitious, though I do feel like I should get out somewhere new. I feel a bit like I've been spending all my time in malls and other air-conditioned spaces, like I was in a tropical version of New Jersey. Which might not be the worst comparison for Singapore, come to think of it.

[To the tune of The Eagles, "I Can't Tell You Why," from the album "Greatest Hits Volume 2".]

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This evening's walk

At about 7 I stopped working, and went out for my usual on-the-road evening walk.


via flickr


via flickr

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At Kinokuniya Bookstore this evening

Taken during my walk down Orchard Road, where I was joined by every other person in Singapore.


via flickr

[To the tune of Mono, "Lost Snow," from the album "Ex Plex, Los Angeles, September 24, 2005".]

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Living Karl Mannheim's dream, and waiting for the cleaning lady to leave

I'm at the Raffles City Starbucks, doing some work. The cleaning ladies basically threw me out of the room-- it was obviously very suspicious that I was still in there in the mid-afternoon, and I needed to get out and get a life. I was starting to run a caffeine deficit anyway, so I trooped down here.


via flickr

The scene is pretty crazy: there are tons of people here, and I had to wait a few minutes for a table.

I'm at that strange and not very pleasant part of the trip where I've met a LOT of interesting people, but am feeling the absence of that casually intimate contact that you have with friends and family, and which go a long way to reminding you of the fact that you're a human being. I think this is one of the toughest parts of traveling extensively: there's a huge gap between how much contact you have with people, and how much you can connect with them. It's probably the closest I ever come to being one of Karl Mannheim's "free-floating intellectuals," those minds whom Mannheim believed would, through their rootlessness lack of attachment to nation or social class, be able to see the world more clearly than others.

Given enough time, of course, you can close that gap; but on a short trip like this, where I'm spending a few hours at most with people under pretty structured circumstances, there's no way to do that. At the same time, I think that dislocation or psychological distance has a certain utilitarian value: it can heighten your capacity for observation, and for me, at least, force me to think more about things.

I'm impressed at how many Europeans there are here: not just tourists, but people who move with the knowing casualness-- or hurried single-mindedness-- that I associate with people who live in a place. It makes Singapore sort of a mirror-image San Francisco: on the other side of the world, repressed rather than radical, and mainly Asian with a substantial European minority.

All Starbucks really are the same. It's really astounding how much they've managed to create a unified corporate image, a set of spaces that, whether one is in the cafe in Dupont Circle or Raffles City or Harvard Square, are always identical in the essentials. There's actually an interesting, Freakonomics-like study to be done of the standardization of cultural spaces, but I think my room should be clean by now, so I'm going to leave that for later.

[To the tune of Gladys Knight & The Pips, "Midnight Train to Georgia," from the album "'The Motown Years".]

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April 18, 2008

After sleeping like a rock

I slept a solid nine hours or so, and am almost in danger of actually adjusting to the time zone-- just in time, as I go home tomorrow!

Last night there was an extraordinary thunderstorm. I don't know if the hotel was actually struck by lightning, but give that it's one of the tallest buildings in Singapore, and it was all REALLY LOUD, I wouldn't be at all surprised.

I've got a few hours' work I need to do, and a couple informal meetings today, but I'm going to head up to the Singapore Botanic Garden, then walk back down to the hotel via Orchard Road and Fort Canning Park.

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In KLIA

I'm in Kuala Lumpur International Airport, and I can't get online. There's supposed to be this cool wireless throughout the airport, but I can't get to it-- it requires a password.

Actually, it doesn't. But I was using DHCP to configure my IP address; I then changed it to BootP, and it got right on. (However, looking now at my network configuration, it claims to be using DHCP again.)

This is a very nice airport. No getting around it. Gigantic, spacious, and pretty pleasantly-designed.

It strikes me as odd that Malaysian Airlines ads feature stewardesses who look like carbon copies of the Singapore Air stewardesses, when this is a predominantly Muslim country. Actually it isn't odd at all, given that Singapore Air is probably what they aspire to be-- it's Sony to their Samsung. But it's an image that isn't very representative of the rest of the country.

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April 16, 2008

It's 6 a.m here--

--and I've been up for a couple hours working. I tend to run on nerves on business trips, and this one is no different; combine that with the time difference, and it means I'm falling asleep at what for me are radically early times, and getting up before the crack of dawn.

Time for a shower.

[To the tune of Alanis Morissette, "Uninvited," from the album "City of Angels".]

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