Today I took my daughter to a birthday party at the Tech Museum of Innovation. (It's an extremely cool place for a birthday. At the end, I asked her, "Was the birthday party educational?" She replied, "Sort of." Which is more than can be said about many venues.) Since she's old enough to just hang out with her friends, I dropped her off and headed to the new city-SJSU library to do some work.
Along the way, I walked around the downtown and San Jose State U. area a bit. The city has spent, or encouraged private developers to spend, gigantic sums of money on redevelopment in the area. So there are now lots of new tony apartment buildings, and numerous upscale or upscale-ish chain restaurants (are Gordon Biersch and PF Changs upscale?). All of this is pretty well-executed, and here and there you also seem some genuinely interesting architecture: the new City Hall is really cool, the Tech Museum is fun, and the San Jose Rep is a pretty neat space.
And yet, somehow, it doesn't hold together. For all the money spent on development, and the various New Urbanism touches, downtown San Jose still feels weirdly uninhabited. The new buildings don't signify vibrancy and community: instead, they just signify "redevelopment happening here!" Now, I was there on a Sunday afternoon, and arguably this is the worst time to visit a downtown. Yet, even around the edges of the campus, which are now surrounded by some very big luxe apartment/townhouse buildings, I didn't get that feeling that you get around, say, Philadelphia's Rittenhouse Square, or a million and one little parks in London, of a space that's inhabited, and has a private life that you'll only glimpse through parted curtains and gaps in the hedge. Instead, the downtown has all the intimacy of a financial district after the markets close.
I'm not sure what's keeping that spark from catching, either. At one level, they seem to be doing everything right: more commercial stuff, more downtown housing, some cool public spaces. But some of it feels too programmed: there seems to be a preference for food court-style chains over the mom-and-pop places that make a neighborhood distinctive. It also didn't feel dense enough: more people on the streets would attract more business, and generate more activity of all kinds.
There's also something about the new buildings that can be strangely office park-ish. In the area around Fairmount Hotel, for example, there are pedestrian walkways and plazas, but they're big and concrete, too large to be personal and too small to be grand. Some corporate headquarters occupy entire city blocks, or big chunks of a block, and are surrounded by manicured grass or concrete pads. It's almost as if the big buildings in downtown San Jose want to be like suburban corporate headquarters rather than buildings in San Francisco or New York. It may make for better executive parking, and spaces that are easier to program and manage, but it works to the overall detriment of the city.
Still, I hope it comes together, and the downtown becomes more than a tourist and Friday night entertainment destination. Successful cities are cool, and it's strange that the Bay Area only has one world-class city. Plus, San Jose sits in one of the most fabulously wealthy and important regions in the world; it ought to be more impressive.
[To the tune of The Band, "Tears Of Rage (Alternate Take)," from the album "Music from Big Pink".]
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